The
nearest
airport
to
Bansko
is
Sofia,
150km
northwest,
although
some
charter companies use Plovdiv,
160km
to
the
east.
Transfer
time
from
Sofia
is about two and a half hours in normal conditions, and from Plovdiv is four
hours - If relying on a
transfer company to drive you back to Sofia
airport you should allow 5 hours from leaving Bansko until your flight
takes
off.
Location - South Western
Bulgaria Bansko
lies in the so-called Kotlovina, a level plain lying between three
mountain ranges
– the Pirin to the West, the Rila to the north and the Rhodopes to the
east. It
is the Pirin range that is the closest to hand, its wooded flanks
rising
suddenly from Bansko’s southern suburbs. Pirin’s compact cluster of
glacier-carved peaks culminate in the handsomely chiselled limestone
summit of
Mt Vihren (2914m), which looms over Bansko to the west
By
Bus Travelling from Sofia
to Bansko by bus takes about three hours. Buses depart from either Sofia’s
Central Bus Station (Tsentralna avtogara), near to the train station on
bul.
Knyaginya Maria Luiza, or from Ovcha Kupel bus station, 5km southwest
of the
city centre (on the route of trams no.5 and no.19).
Bansko’s
bus
station
is
at
the
northern
end
of
town, a ten minute walk from the main
square. There is a taxi rank in the bus station forecourt. There is a
public
toilet, and a small shop, selling coffee, nibble-snacks and soft
drinks, but no
other facilities.Time Table
By
Car Bansko lies two-and-a-half hours’ drive from Sofia, although
journey time can lengthen (when
getting out of Sofia
is often half
the problem). Quickest route is to take the main E79 south to Simitli,
from
where a well-marked east-bound turn leads over the PredelaPass
to
Bansko. The Simitli-Bansko road is now first class and offers a smooth
ride. In
the season be careful where you park your car as the local patrols are
about
and will lift your car and pound it until you pay for its release. If
you would prefer othes to do the driving for you, there are many transfer
companies that will happily collect you from the airport and return
you after your stay in Bansko. Check their prices as they do vary a
little, however the quality varies quite a bit, stick to recomended
companies. There are many good ones.
By Train Nobody ever takes the train to Bansko if they’re in a hurry. The
journey
from Sofia takes
over 7
hours and involves a change of trains at the middle-of-nowhere junction
of
Septemvri. However the trip from Septemvri to Bansko is one of the most
scenic
that Bulgaria
has to offer, with a narrow-gauge track, snaking its way across the
western
spurs of the Rhodope
Mountains.
It’s an especially magical journey in winter, with the fir trees
covered in
frost, and snow-white minarets spearing skywards from the
Bulgarian-Muslim
villages, sprinkled along the route.
Bansko’s
train
station
is
near
the
bus
station,
an
easy 10-minute walk north of the
town
centre. If you need a taxi and there are none in the forecourt, head
for the
bus station (turn right outside the train station then bear left) to
find one.
The train station has a ticket hall but no other facilities, although
the pair
of vintage steam locos, parked outside, adds an air of jollity to the
scene
Eating Out in Bansko Bansko is chock-full of "mehanas",
traditional-style
taverns
where
Bulgarian
food
is
washed
down
with copious quantities of
local
wine and spirits. Each mehana tries to cultivate a folksy feel through
its
choice of wooden furnishings, stripey tablecloths, brightly-coloured
textiles
and stone-clad walls (although these ethnic interior elements are
becoming so
standardized that it's become increasingly difficult to tell one
mehana
apart from another). The other characteristic feature of the Bansko
mehana is
the ubiquitous presence of Macedonian folk music - either on the CD
player or
performed live by a local band. With shrill clarinets drilling holes in
your
grey matter and the clatter of a darbuka drummer echoing around your
ears,
dining out in Bansko can be a wonderfully raucous experience. If neither Bulgarian food
nor
music are quite your cup of tea, then Bansko offers respite in the form
of some
pizzerias, a couple of steakhouses, and a reasonable range of
international
food in the restaurants of the bigger hotels.
The Winter Season As days get shorter and the smell of winter fills the chilly air
of
December mornings, vacation, partying and hitting the mountain slopes
becomes
our top priority. While you are sharpening the edges of your skis and
snowboards, the people of Bansko are preparing for the winter season
with all
their strength. The piles of firewood are ready for the long, cold nights,
wines, rakias
and the good old Banski Starets are seasoning in the basements and
vigorous
maintenance gives a new life to the lonely lifts and ski runs. They are
all
waiting for the colorful throngs who come each winter to enjoy the snow
and the
mountains. Going uphill on Bansko’s main Pirin Street,
(Bansko
Map)we
can see that things
are changing for good. There are few construction sites left to litter
the
picturesque village but generally the buildings have been completed and
the
place is looking much more like a true resort. The magic of this
cosy,
rural community has returned. Apart from some finishing touches,
building has
stopped and entrepreneurs are mostly investing in quality and comfort
at
reasonable prices.
Bansko Slopes(See Piste
Map)
Most of Bansko’s skiing
opportunities
are located just southwest of town on the slopes of Mt
Todorka, which
culminates in the
2756m peak
of Todorin vruh.
Access to the pistes is provided by the gondola
which departs from Bansko’s lift station, located at the southwestern
end of
town. Passes can be bought from 4pm onwards on the previous day if you
want to
avoid queuing on the morning itself – you can’t purchase them in
advance over
the internet. Expect queues to get on the gondola itself – especially
between
the 9-10am ‘rush hour’.
The lift-operating company Ulen run a ski-hire
centre at the lift station. It’s by no means the only ski-hire place
in town
and you should check prices elsewhere before making your choice.It is
rare that you would need to prebook your ski's and boots. However it
might be wise to prebook any lessons that you require.
The gondola ascends in two stages, first to Chalin
valog directly
above Bansko, which is the
starting point for a couple of shortish red runs. The second stage of
the
gondola climbs to Banderishka
polyana,
where a trio of chairlifts branch off to higher altitudes. To the west
of
Banderishka polyana lies Tsarna mogila, the longest of the intermediate
routes,
although there’s a much wider range of opportunities to the south,
where the
upper reaches of Mt Todorka host the densest network of pistes. An
interlocking
web of red runs descend down Todorka to the Shiligarnika
area, while
longer blue runs wind their way
down to Shiligarnika via the so-called Plateau on the eastern shoulder
of the
mountain. Todorka is also the start of the Alberto Tomba run, Bansko’s
only
black route, which ends up at Banderishka polyana.
There are plenty of snacking,
eating
and drinking opportunities at Banderishka polyana,
Shiligarnika
and the Plateau.
Dobrinishte Slopes
Ten kilometres southeast of Bansko, the village
of Dobrinishte
is the gateway to another skiing area, although the range of pistes is
much
more limited and access to them is time-consuming. Main route to the
slopes is
a chairlift, which rises from the Gotse Delchev chalet 12km south of
the
village, to the Bezbog chalet, just below the 2645m Bezbog peak. The
pistes
running back down the mountain to the Gotse Delchev chalet are marked
as red,
but are quite a challenge for intermediates who don’t have a previous
knowledge
of the area. A Little of Bansko's Past If you think that Bansko is a Balkan village suddenly catapulted
to fame
and fortune by its latter-day development as a ski-centre, then think
again.
Bansko was one of nineteenth-century Bulgaria’s
richest
towns,
and
the
monuments
are
still
here
to prove it.
Bansko owed
its
wealth
to
a
central
position
on key inland caravan
routes,
which lead from the Aegean port
of Thessaloniki
to the cities of central Europe.
As
well
as
providing
food
and
lodging
to
the caravan drovers, Bansko folk
became traders themselves, warehousing rich silks from the east and
fine
furniture from the west.
The
caravan
trade
died
out
in
the
late
nineteenth
century when it became more
convenient to transport goods on steamships and trains rather than on
the backs
of donkeys. Bansko continued to flourish as an agricultural centre rich
in
goats, sheep and cattle, and enjoyed a considerable political role in
the years
before World War I when it was an important centre of the anti-Ottoman
Macedonian revolutionary movement.
The
nineteenth-century
houses
lining
central
Bansko’s
cobbled
alleyways
provide
enduring
evidence of the town’s historical importance.
Bansko
is
among
those Bulgarian towns which played
a noteworthy role in the historic development of the nation especially
during
the Revival Period. The historic charater of the town remains in the
unique
houses of Banskalii with their tall pinewood gates and carved-wood
ceilings,
and in the architecture and the fine iconostasis of churches. The past
and
present are interwoven in a way that is at once distinctive and
original.
The
most
impressive
side
of Bansko are the preserved traditions and the spirit
of the
old quarter with its stone houses and traditional Bulgarian restaurants
(mehanas). In every restaurant you one can taste excellent local
cuisine and
famous red wine and listen to the traditional folklore music which
accompanies
almost every event and social gathering.
Churches
Located in the town graveyard, near the railway station, this cemetery
chapel was built in 1774. Semi-submerged in order to comply with
Ottoman
restrictions, and illuminated by four tiny windows, it has the feel of
a
mysterious grotto. The intricate wood-carved iconostasis is a
masterpiece of
eighteenth-century folk-influenced art, and is filled with icons by
local
painter Toma Vishanov. Unfortunately, the chapel is rarely open, and
may only
be accessible at mass times on certain Sundays throughout the year. The
tourist
office may be able to advise on the best time to wander down and take a
look
Built in 1835, Bansko’s HolyTrinityChurch
was the biggest church in Bulgaria
in the nineteenth century, and is still one of the most attractive.
Ottoman
restrictions specified that Christian churches should never be higher
than a
man on horseback, ensuring
that
most
nineteenth-century
Bulgarian
churches
were
squat
structures
built
slightly
underground.
Bansko’s
elders
decided to
ignore
these restrictions, confident that the town’s importance as a trading
centre
would dissuade the Turkish sultan from taking any action. The
churchyard’s high
wall was erected first, concealing the rest of the building site from
prying
Ottoman officials.
The church is entered via a lovely porch lined with wooden benches.
Inside,
elegant pillars rise above rows of wooden pews. The main icon screen is
an
extravagantly detailed piece of wood carving, featuring
exquisitely-rendered
floral shapes, birds, dragons and other traditional folk motifs. At the
back,
wooden grilles serve to barrier off the rear part of the church,
traditionally
reserved for female worshippers.
Best time to visit the church is the Sunday morning service, when many
of
Bansko’s older women attend in traditional costume.
Museums IconMuseum
- During the nineteenth century Bansko was an important centre of
icon-painting
workshops. Bansko-trained painters decorated monasteries and churches
throughout the region, many of them working on Bulgaria’s
most
famous
monastic
foundation,
Rila
Monastery,
70km
to
the northwest.
Bansko’s icon-painting traditions began with local boy Toma Vishanov,
who
accompanied local merchants on a trip to Vienna
in the late eighteenth century and came back with a book of Austrian
religious
prints. Setting up his own painting studio, Vishanov (subsequently
nicknamed
“Moler” by the locals after the German word for painter, Mahler) went
on to
produce a stream of icons that combined both eastern Orthodox and
modern
western styles. Vishanov’s son Dimitar Molerov and grandson Simeon
Molerov
carried on the family tradition – Dimitar is reckoned to be the most
talented
of the bunch.
Bansko’s icon museum occupies a nineteenth-century metoh, a small
monastery-cum-lodging house where monks journeying between Mount Athos
and Rila Monastery would rest up
for the night. The metoh also took in orphans and taught them basic
crafts.
The metoh’s former cells and workshops are now occupied by a display
devoted to
Vishanov and his followers. On the opposite side of the metoh’s
courtyard, the
former stables now house a gallery of nineteenth century icons, with
Vishanov
and his descendants featuring prominently.
Neofit Rilski House - Lurking behind a stone wall round the back of
the
Holy Trinity church is the birthplace of Neofit Rilski, (1793-1881),
the monk
and scholar who presided over the development of primary education in
nineteenth-century Bulgaria. The part of the display devoted to
Rilski’s life
and works is rather boring, to be quite frank, but there’s plenty to
enjoy in
the period rooms of the house itself. Neofit’s father served as
Bansko’s parish
priest, and used one room in the house to teach reading, writing and
bible study
to the local kids. Pupils wrote in wooden boxes filled with sand,
examples of
which can still be seen today. The family’s main living room features
an open
hearth on which meals were cooked, and a low central table
–nineteenth-century
Bulgarians ate sitting on the floor.
Name Days "Name Days" are celebrated in addition to birthdays in Bulgaria.
Truth
be
known,
most
Bulgarians
value
their
‘Name
Day’ more than their
birthday. A Name Day, or "Saints Day" is celebrated by people named
after that Saint (eg. everyone named Peter celebrates Saint Peter's
day). We
could accurately say that a "Name Day" is the feast day of the saint
after whom one is named.Bulgaria
is largely a Christian country. On their 'Name Day' the person is to
light a
candle in the local church. These special 'Name
Days' ("immen den"
in
Bulgarian)
are
celebrated with a family meal. It is appropriate that a
religious icon commemorating the saint after whom a Christian is named
is given
as a gift on such occasions.